This car was sold May 1996 for $16K

This car got more attention than any car I have ever owned for any price. It's never hard to find it in the show at Hershey, just look for all the umbrellas. If you don't think this car draws a crowed, just ask the poor people who had to park there cars beside the Amphicar,one year, one ask to move and was allowed to because of the crowed .

The car is an older restoration not perfect but is a constant Trophy winner in shows it has averaged winning a trophy 90% of the time it is in competition, and it is almost always the most popular car at the show. It Won a First at Hershey in 1990 and now carries the "AACA National First Prize Winner's Plaque on the front.

If you want a brass trimmed Amphicar this is the only one in existence (I think). All the brass in not original. Most Amphicars have chromed potmetal trim. The dash is trimed in brass. I cast and polished the brass, bronze,and copper. I really like the brass and think it sets the car off.

Some of people have had question about registering the car. In Indiana you have to have both boat and car registrations. I have a letter from the chief at the BMV stating I do not have to pay taxes on the boat as I have already paid taxes on it as a car. It cost me $12.75 to register as a car and $5.00 to register as a boat and $12.50 taxes or a total or $30.25 a year. As for insurance I insure it as a car with State Farm as a Collector car L,PD,M only it runs $12.75 every 6 months. As a boat it is covered under my homeowners policy. My home owner policy cover all boats up to 50hp and that Amphicar is 43hp. If you wanted to insure it for collision you would just have to set a value and insure it for that the same as any collector car. That's a total of $65.75 a year so it doesn't cost much to own and keep it totally legal on any land or water.

Amphi does start and run well even though it still has it original points, plugs, cap, rotor and wires. I have had several questions about how the Amphicar Drives. I have had several antique cars and all of them drive differently. The Amphicar drives about like a mid 50's car. It has 80% of it weight in the rear which makes it understeer, it has a short wheelbase and a stiff suspension which makes it ride rough, it has 43 HP so it is no powerhouse, so if you expect it to drive like modern cars it doesn't. I wouldn't drive it to work everyday. But I do drive it on vacations with my wife and family in it and have no fear for their safety or fear of having to walk home. When we drive it on vacation, we usually have the top down. I have my 9 and 3 year old daughters ride in the front with me (I temporarily install a seat belt for her) and my wife rides in the back, so I don't go much over 45mph because it messes up my wife's hair and I get bitched at so its just not worth it. At night or in the rain, with the top up I usually drive about 50 55mph. (With the flag removed, the flag beats itself to death over 45mph). I like to drive at night with the red/green and pole lights on and the flag in, this is against the law in most states, but I have never been hassled. The car has the new style bigger springs it takes to put Gordons replacement shocks on I don't know how to answer the "does it drive well" question honestly, I think it drives good for an Amphicar but not good for a new Corvette. I had one man tell me he had driven two Amphicars and he wouldn't drive either one acrossed the street and then wanted to know if mine drove well. I can send you a copy of a Amphicar road test from a 1967 Car and Driver, this was a test on a new Amphicar. Read it and decide if you would be satisfied with any Amphicar. If they drove great and were a great boat, they wouldn't have gone out of business.

In the water it seeps a little ( all Amphicar owner I talked to say theirs leak too) I wouldn't want to tie it up to a peer all night, but, it is fine for use. I usually run it up in shallow water to park. While boating I usually keep an eye on the water level in the hull. I run the bilge pump when there get to be 1 in. or more. this is about 5 10% of the time. In rough water the front hood will take on some water. I can adjust it so it doesn't leak but the it take two people to close it.

I have never checked the gas milage. But I have driven over 200 miles on a tank so it is at least 20, I have heard from other owners theirs is as high as 40mpg. I just don't drive it enough for it to make any difference to me. I run regular leaded gas.

Most parts are available at reasonable prices from Gordons Imports. My parts car has all of the hard to get parts like swing arms (all four) and doors.

The Drivers door does lock with the ignition key (no key hole on passenger side). But there are snaps on the top above the doors so entry would not be hard even with the doors locked. The glove box locks. All locks one key.

All light work including the boat lights and I have the Flag pole.
The top is manual, I can put it up and down by myself on land.
Yes, it has a heater and defroster but does not put out much heat. It is fine in summer and fall. One Christmas Parade and we froze.
Tires were new from Sears, Guardsman Vintage car tires. 5.60 13.
All the brass is clear coated except the tail pipe.
The bolt pattern on the car is standard Ford. 13in rims off and old 60's Fairlane fit. But, I have spare Amphicar wheels. The spare tire in the Amphicar is original and has never been on the ground and show no age cracks.
As far as what in new on the car it would be impossible to list. Most thing have been replaced or redone except the engine.

We always take Amphi on vacation with us and park our motorhome and drive Amphi around. The only problem with this is you have to chase the people away from the car everytime you want to leave a parking lot.

I hope I have answered most of your questions, I came think of as honestly as I can. I have not mentioned all of the cars fine points I think the AACA fist National speaks for it's self.

As for what I had with the car A 1967 parts car (no title) disassembled compete except engine and other parts from a 1968
An Amphicar literature collection including an original sales brochure (I have seen one sell for $350), An original color chart, several old car magazines with the original road tests. Books that mention the Amphicar
Complete Service, Parts and Electrical manuals in binders.
Reliable Automotive Custom Evolution 3 car cover.


1983 Trailex Aluminum Trailer customized for an Amphicar replacement cost over $5000. I will sell it with the car for $2500. The Amphicar track is so narrow it will fall thru most trailers. It is a CT 7041 HS with surge brakes, wench and wench platform, 7ft 6000lb ramps, dual spare tires and mounts, extra wide wheel stops, dolly crank and wheel, rear unloading legs, 6 white spoke wheels with tires, Full length 12" wide extra floor aluminum planks, 4 corner tie downs and straps (I have mounted tie loop to all four lower shock bolts on the Amphicar to tie it down with, because with out axles it was hard it tie down. With the hooks I can have it loaded and tied in less than 5 min. by myself.) Just drive it on hook the hooks, ratchet the straps and store the ramps and you off. The trailer weighs about 900lb and the car weighs about 2200lb for a total of about 3000lb. I towed it for a year 10,000 miles with a Ford Ranger with a 2000cc 4 speed without any trouble. The trailer and car is a great setup. I push the car and trailer in and out of my garage, by myself, by hand, every time I use it. The Trailer is 19ft long and 7' 10" wide and with the car on it is less than 6 1/2 ft tall so it will fit in a standard garage on the trailer. I


Back to Jay's Home page